Thursday, February 16, 2012

Wine Rack Instructions

I should probably discuss the steps on how the wine rack was built.
Materials needed:
3 - 1x6x8 pine planks
1 - 1x2x8 pine plank
4 - eye hooks
3 ft light weight chain
2 1 5/8 x 3 hinges with screws
2 wood screws between 1 1/4 -2"
18 gauge nails 1 1/4" long

Equipment needed
Drill press with 2 1/2 hole saw
Table saw
Router with desired profile bit
Miter Saw
Brad nailer

Wine rack front
  1. Plane and size all 1x6x8 to the same thickness and dimension
  2. Cut 5 pieces of 5 wide x 36 inches high.
  3. Take the three best of the above pieces and mark hole centers according to the drawing.
  4. Use a drill press and hole saw to cut holes in planks.  Best way to do this is to cut almost all the way through the wood with the hole saw. Then flip the board over and cut the rest from the other side.  This method prevents blow out and makes it easier to remove the plug from the hole saw.  Please turn off the drill press to remove the plug cut out.
  5. Profile the edges with the the router. I used a 1/2" cove bit.  I also put an 1/8" chamfer to ease the edges of holes. 
  6. Rip the remaining lumber and off fall to 1 1/2 inches.  This will be the stretchers and the steps that keep the wine bottles neck down.
  7. Cut four pieces 15" long.  These are the stretchers that hold the planks together.  The forth is for the hinge mounts
  8. Lay the planks face down on top of some 2x4's to lift them off the work bench.  Make sure all the tops are aligned and put 1/4" spacers between the planks.  Lightly clamp the edges of the planks against the spacers.  This will buckle if there is too much pressure.
  9. Glue and clamp the stretchers over the top, middle and bottom holes.  These stretchers should cover the top 3/8 inch of the hole.
  1. Cut 36 4" long blocks (I would cut a few more) from the remaining  1 1/2" wide strips. 
  2. Take two of these blocks and nail them together with a 3/8" step on the longest edge.  Repeat this 14 more times.
  3. Take one of these steps and nail another block with a 3/8" step.  Repeat this 5 more times.  Tip: Make 3/8" gauge blocks.  It makes these step assemblies a lot easier.
  4. Attach the 3 block steps to the 2nd and 4th row of holes.  the bottom step should cover the top 3/8" of the hole.  Take time and make sure all the blocks in the row line up.  If they are off it is very noticeable
  5. Attach the 2 block steps to the stretchers creating the third step.
  1. Cut the two remaining  5 x 36" wide board to 34 3/4 inches.
  2. Cut three 1 1/2 x 5 pieces for spacers.  You can use 4" long parts also.
  3. Clamp up the back with one spacer at the top, middle and bottom.  I glued and pocket screwed the spacers into place but doweling or biscuit joining will also work.
  4. Take the hinge mount board cut earlier and drill two countersunk holes in the edge of the board for wood screws
  5. lay the hinge mound and back on a flat surface and attach the hinges
Final assembly finishing
  1. Attach the hinge mount to the front of the wine rack with wood screws.  The hinge mount should fit nicely on the first step and screw into the 15" stretcher
  2. Attach eye hooks about half way down on either side.
  3. Attach 18" of chain to the eye hooks
  4. Disassemble and finish

I hope to have better drawings and  instructions with figures  on some of my other projects.  Let me know what you think or suggestions.

    Thursday, February 9, 2012

    Wine Rack

    This is a project that I know nothing about.  I was asked to build a wine rack.  Before this project I knew that wine had alcohol and came in glass bottles.  I know now that the cork needs to remain moist which is why wine is not stored upright.  I combined two different ideas and this is the design that came out.
    The ideas came from these two websites.  I hope it works.  It held a bottle of Martinelli's and a cordless drill.  It will not hold my son's cup of milk.

    This is what it would be used for at our house.

    Interesting little project.  It took a weekend to build and is made of pine.  Toughest part was getting the profile on the sides of the boards.  The wood liked to chip out no matter how light the cut was.  I ended up back cutting the profile on the router first.  This is the run the board with the direction of the cutter.  This is risky because the router will like to grab pull and throw the piece.  I am please how it turned out.  Probably will not make another unless I am asked.  I will post my sketches of this when I scan them in.  This is my design you will be free to use it however you would like. My only request is that you do not sell the plans.  They will be offered free here.
     Yes this is a hand sketch.  I do do some of my designs on the computer.