Sanding Table

I have been wanting to build a cabinet for my belt sanders that would hold all the toy making parts, wheels, axles, and other things as well as my sanding supplies.  These parts were stored in several cabinets and on shelves.  I had separated the toy parts with containers and it worked but was not really happy with it.  So over the holiday weekend I put this cabinet all together.  I had cut out all the carcass components and made the frames the weekend before.

I had two storage goals that I wanted to accomplish with this cart.  The first was to store all the sand paper.  My belts and paper were just sitting on shelves. I wanted to hang my belts, keep the paper flat and my drum sanders out of reach of my kids.  They liked to take them and use them as wheels.  I made a pull out drawer where I can hang my large belts.  In the future, I would like to upgrade to a 6" x 48" wide belt, so this drawer can accommodate the increase in width and length.  On the other side of the drawer holds some of my small templates and all my drum sander parts.  This way I hope to keep better control of the parts.  I then have pads and smaller belts in a drawer

The second goal was to organize and store all the parts for making toys.  I have accumulated a lot over the years.You can sort of tell that I like the treaded wheels and have a lot of them.  It is also apparent that I need to order more of the 1 1/2" wheels.  This is one of the benefits of having everything separated out.

The other benefit was getting rid of all these extra containers.

There are some drawers that I did not show.  They contain my finishing chemicals and supplies.  They were not in an area easily accessable to my kids but I did want them out of sight.
 
Over all I removed three pieces of furniture with this cart.  Shop looks a little better, still a ways to go.

The design was a work in process over the course of the build and I made some assumptions that bit me later in the build.  The dimensions and over all look was pretty set.  The first big assumption I made was that I had enough tolerance to grow my partition back 3/4" for my small drawers.  I had to cut my large drawers to accommodate the partition.  More of a pain than a problem.  Second problem was that I did not allow enough room for the glides on the sanding belt drawer.  I was able to barely squeeze the drawer in.  I think I have less than a 1/32" between the bottom and the glides. 

I do plan on adding doors to finish it off.  I did not have wide enough stock to do them at the time.  I do not plan on finishing it.  I really do not see the point of finishing shop furniture.   The top is a kitchen island top from work.  This is one of the perks of working at a cabinet shop.  It is not food grade so could not be sold.  Everything else is maple and plywood.

It was a good weekend build.  The only bad part was that I started to notice that the board would drift when ripping on my table saw.  The problem was easy to diagnose, my fence and blade are not parallel.  It is a relatively easy adjustment except there is no more adjustment in the fence which means the motor is moving on the table.  I was hoping for a few more years before my saw needed to be replaced and replace it with a cabinet saw.  I am hoping to dig in this weekend to straighten it out. 

Glass Nativity

I have done a few of these over the years (actually six).  These will be the last.  They are not as difficult as they were time consuming.  There was also a lot of take away lessons from doing glass etchings.

My dad did the original and several others for other people several years back.  I wanted one about ten years ago.  He had lost the pattern so with a light and paper I copied it.  His was done on tinted glass.  I was told that tinted glass made the etchings look better and the image stand out.  So I went and picked up my glass, etching solution and contact paper.  First lesson: NEVER use easy remove contact paper.  The etching solution lifted the contact paper and I was left with a completely etched glass.  That alone should have been enough to deter me but I had more etching solution left, so I tried it on a much cheaper mirror with the correct contact paper and it worked.  I made two this time because I cut down a full length mirror from Walmart.  I have one and the other is at my in-laws. 
A few years back the one my father did at my parents home broke.  I decided to replace it with a framed mirror one.  Put the contact paper and made all the cut outs and then let it sit.  I found it last year and finished it.  Lesson two: The longer contact paper sits on a surface the more adhesive sticks to the surface.  I think I peeled off pure vinyl and all the adhesive stuck to the mirror.  I used a quart of goof off to remove all the adhesive.  It was given as a Christmas present last year to my parents. My siblings all wanted one.
I had enough etching cream for three more.  I was not going  to buy any more because the stuff is expensive and I really do not like working with glass.  So learning from past experiences I used the contact paper I had left over and did three more in about two weeks.  Lesson Three: As contact paper gets older, the adhesive does not stick well to the vinyl.  This is a little different than lesson two.  As I was cutting out the contact paper for the etched sections not all the glue came off with the vinyl.  leaving a little bit of residue.  I cleaned most of this residue up.  The etching solution did not etch the mirror where there was glue left.  Most of these are small little dots, so to appear to be beauty marks of a handmade piece. 
I also made all the frames for these nativities.  These are beech, stained ebony with a coat of shellac.  The frames came out nice even though I hate to make miter stuff.  I only had one of the three frames be a problem.  So in conclusion, lesson learned:  No more glass etchings.

Tower of Blocks

This was a fun little weekend project that took me a couple of weeks to do.  I actually finished the blocks several months ago but decided I needed a carrying case for them.  So that is what I did last week. 

My kids are more interested in knocking the tower down then building a tower.  The blocks are made out of poplar and the box is cherry.  Simple build and did not take that long.  It was also a good way to use the rest of the Shellac that I had before it went bad.

No truck, not a huge problem

Wood Talk recently did a podcast on how they personally get lumber to their workshops.  Surprisingly, only one had a truck.  I thought it was fitting in what I was trying to figure out.  A couple of years ago I needed to trade in my truck for a minivan.  Our family has been growing and I needed a little more economical car for my day job commute.  So my wife got the minivan and I got her car.  We did not get the minivan that could fit a sheet of ply.  So the question comes up how do I do it.  I did not have to figure out that question until recently.  I just received and order for more tiles, which requires a sheet of MDF.  So I figured I would hope that the lumber yard would be able to cut it down for me, but I had a backup plan if they could not.  I "borrowed" my father's cordless circular saw and brought it with me with some clamps.  (I don't think my dad realizes it is missing yet.)  The lumber yard did not have the ability to cut down the sheets so with a straight edge and the circular saw the board was knocked down to a more manageable pieces.  The lumberyard was happy to provide some assistance and it seemed like this was not the first time a customer has asked to do this.  My dad might get is saw back one of these days.  The only suggestion I have is to bring an extra battery.  They saw does no good with a dead battery.
Now onto the joys of MDF.  I do not typically use MDF in my projects because they are toys.  However MDF is stable, flat and consistent.  My biggest issue working with MDF is the dust that it produces.  I take all the precautions I can when machining it.  My shop vac is hooked up to the saw and running, I have a respirator on and plenty of ventilation.  Still everything was coated in a layer of dust and I was just cutting the parts out.  I think when I do the routing I will do it outside.  It is very messy to work with.

Simi truck Flat Bed Trailer

 

The cab for the truck is basically the same as the dump truck design. I shortened up the chassis and added a hitch.  That is the great thing about a simple design; parts cover multiple designs.

So I thought the flat bed trailer was going to be pretty easy design.  It is a flat bed, no big deal, right?  The rear wheels were going to drive me insane.  My original plan was to cut them out at a 45 degree angle and then figured that for a basic plan that would be a pain to do.  Then it was how to cut the recesses and then how do I cut the base?  I am a power tool woodworker so I really did not want to chisel out an angle.  So I settled on the current plan.  Looks good and relatively simple.

The semi cab is 12 1/2" long and about 7" tall.  The flat bed trailer is 26" long.  It will haul all the vehicles that are part of the construction design right now.  It should accommodate all of my designs. 

Bulldozer

This was one of the projects that I really wanted to bring in different thicknesses of wood.  I stayed true to the commitment of standard 3/4" thick lumber.  The hardest part of this entire design was the tread.  I was not expecting this because I knew how I was going to make it from the excavator design.  I was not expecting to figure out what size worked well.  My original plan was  to make the tread taller and not as long.   It would not work and did not look right.  I finally settled on the current size.

The next problem was how it was all going to fit together.  I would love to call it pure genius but in reality it was luck with a little bit of planning.  At first I was going to recess the wheel pegs into the tread, but leaving them out was a perfect location mechanism.  This guaranteed all the wheels the same distance from the ground.




Now the location for the tread front to back I was not so lucky.  First one I placed about a 1/4" from the front.  I added the pegs in the rail to limit the up and down movement.  It limited it too much.  So on the second I though I might get just as lucky with the pegs for the rake in the back.  So I pushed the tread against the tread in the pegs in the back.  The shovel now hits the engine.  I do not know if I am ok with this even though it far better than the first.  Everything else went together smoothly.

It was a fun build and my kids did not understand why they could not play with it after the first dry fit.  I am happy with the design and it is a good addition to the previous designs. 

City Trucks Redesign

So I finished the redesign of the city trucks.  I think they turned out a lot better.  Plans will be available on Etsy in the new future for these projects.  I will also be selling the redesign models.  I made these out of oak. 
The Flat Bed Truck

The first thing that  I did was increase the wheel base.  I did this by grooving the side panels and increasing the width of the chassis.  This pushes the wheels to the out on the side side so they do not look so small on the truck.  I also shortened up the bed.  The stakes in the stake bed are now 3/8" instead of 1/4".  I just thought 1/4" was a little too thin for rough play.

The Tow Truck

Similar changes to the flat bed truck.  The wheel base is widened pushing the wheels to the outside.  The tow arm also has more wood need the hook.  This is so it does not split when putting the dowel through the hook.
The Cherry Picker

This was in general too big.  Increased the wheel base and made it duel back wheels.  The bed was shortened and the boom lost about 5" of reach.  It is now more stable and looks better.  The bucket is now just a drilled hole.  This is much easier to cut out then the square it was originally designed.